Episode 2

遶境路線:九天的徒步

The largest of Taiwan's Mazu pilgrimages begins each spring at 大甲鎮瀾宮 in 台中. For nine days and eight nights, the goddess's palanquin travels nearly 350 kilometers across central Taiwan, passing through 21 townships in four counties before returning home. Roughly two million people walk some portion of the route each year. By some measures it is the largest annual religious gathering on earth.

The date is not chosen by humans. Each January, at 元宵節 (Lantern Festival), the temple board uses 擲筊 — wooden divination blocks — to ask Mazu when she wishes to begin. Her answer becomes the year's calendar. In 2026 she chose April 17 — a nine-day journey ending on April 25.

The path

From 大甲, the procession threads south through 彰化, 雲林, and 嘉義, then turns home. Major stops anchor the rhythm. 彰化南瑤宮 hosts an early reception. 西螺福興宮 receives the goddess on the third night. The midpoint is 北港朝天宮, where she stays for two days of intense ceremony before turning back. 新港奉天宮 welcomes her on the return. Between these temples, the procession passes through smaller villages where families have prepared food, water, and altars for years, waiting their turn to host her.

Walking the route in full is a feat of devotion and endurance. Walking part of it — even ten kilometers, even one — places you inside something larger than yourself.